Danelectro Effect Pedal DC Bridge
I’ve come across clients that came with Danelectro original and miscellaneous effect pedals (these are the heavy die cast ones that look like 50s cadillac cars) that seem to lose power under different circumstances.
Apparently, these have a so called “flip flop” circuit, which means on loss of power, the pedal turns off. This can obviously lead to awkward stage situations!
I have studied the DC jacks, and it appears these are open on one side, facilitating the inserted plug to move and then, break contact, thus rendering the pedal powerless.
Many thanks to my friend for helping me develop the first version of the model.
The solution is a small “bridge” or “cage” which we glue over the DC jack on the circuitboard, hereby “caging” the insert jack plug, preventing it from being wiggled out. I advise epoxy or cyanoacrylate to glue the part on the smaller (separate) power circuit board, see pictures.
Let’s make these Danelectro pedals great again!
Order yours here: Danelectro Effect Pedal DC Bridge
The problem was; the LED light didn’t work anymore: this can be very tedious, especially when playing live. Lazy as I am, I grew accustomed to it and just checked it by playing my guitar. Today it was quite rainy so I thought let’s whip out the ol’ soldering iron and check out what’s wrong with the LED light.
In my spare cupboard I found an old LED from a pocket flashlight of the right size in color red, tested it using a small flat button battery, it worked. I didn’t yet know for sure if the LED in the TS-9 was broken, loose connection or shorting circuit in the pedal, so off I went.I opened the pedal carefully, and unscrewed the print board.
Two wires come off the print board to a smaller separate board, to which the LED is soldered. A diode (a Light Emitting Diode) in this case, will only allow current to flow one way: this means that it will only function if connected in the right way. The pedal itself was working fine, only the LED didn’t light up. So I used the spare LED in my hand, testing it on the various connections until I saw it light up; conclusion; the electronics are still in tact; only the bulb itself was broken.
Now comes the fiddly bit; I unscrewed the smaller “LED print board”, it is held in place close to the hole where the LED protrudes through the face of the body, and carefully lifted it out and used my soldering-helper-buddy to clamp it in one of the crocodile clamps. I let the soldering iron heat up and coated it with a tiny bit of solder; this will prolong the life of your soldering iron, regardless if you need to add solder to your connection.
I had positioned the small LED print board with the LED facing down, so I could heat up both “legs” of the LED captured in two tiny drops of solder on the bottom of it. Carefully heating them (you don’t want the two drops to merge or “cook” the print board). You can spot the solder melting when it turns all shiny and silver instead of dull. Using my free hand, I pulled on the LED while heating the “legs” and bingo! It came loose without disturbing the two drops of solder on the print board too much: success.
With the broken bulb unsoldered, I could now solder in the new -working- LED. Having mentioned before that a diode only accepts current one way, I was sure to test the new bulb and mark one of the legs with a magic marker so I knew which leg went where. There are two tiny holes in this print board which accept the two LED legs.
I clamped the LED up side down in the soldering helper, and clamped the print board in the other crocodile clamp over it, and nudged the (precut) legs in the tiny holes.The tricky bit: heating up both solder drops, making sure they don’t melt together (which would short it out) and without “cooking” the print board, I applied gentle pressure to the new LED while heating up the solder and all of a sudden, it sank in, I lifted up the soldering iron and presto!
The LED was soldered in place. It pays to test it at this point, before closing up the pedal. Luckily the new LED lit up real well and the soldering connection appeared solid. Using a normal paper perforator, I punched a hole in a tiny ring of cardboard with a shiny silver side. I used this as a washer behind the LED as a reflector, which makes it a bit brighter.Then I screwed everything back together, there you go: a brand new functioning LED!